Camera Parts

Camera Parts 

AF/MF  Auto-Focus Manual-Focus 

All about Manual-Focus 

Flick the switch
Locate the AF/MF switch and move it from AF (autofocus) to MF (manual focus). The switch might be in different locations depending on the camera system and lens you’re using, but typically, it will be somewhere on the lens barrel.Do the twist,To manually focus a lens, you simply twist the focus ring. You’ll be able to see when the image is sharp through the viewfinder. You might have to twist the focus ring back and forth, moving through and beyond your chosen point of focus until you see that focus is spot on.Get some help,Different shooting situations will call for different focusing techniques. In really low light – when you’re shooting at night, for example – try using the distance numbers on the lens to judge your subject’s distance from the lens. Most lenses will have this feature.Review your shots,To double-check that your shots are pin-sharp, use your D-SLR’s LCD screen for a close look. All you need to do is zoom in and navigate to the specific area you focused on. This way you should get a good idea of whether your image is sharp. If it’s not, just refocus and shoot again.

All about Auto-Focus 

Well have can I say there isn't much to Auto-focus it says what it is in the name so I wont go into,to much detail about it but when you switch it to AF the camera focuses it for you so you don't have to move the lens and focus it yourself. 

Screen Settings 

Set the LCD brightness       

I set the LCD brightness to AUTO, and then to brighter, and it's always perfect.

To do this, press:

MENU > WRENCH > LCD Brightness > SET > AUTO (set with top dial) and MAX (set with rear dial) > SET.

Image Settings    

White Balance

I usually shoot in Auto White Balance (AWB), but trim the colors to add 5 steps of amber (A5).

To set white balance, use the Quick Control Screen > use rear thumb button to go to the AWB or other WB icon > SET > turn rear dial.

The 7D makes sunset colors, and things lit by sunset light, stay very yellow. If it's too yellow for you, set the WB SHIFT/BKT back to neutral from my personal default of A5.

Often AWB will make indoor scenes look way too orange. If so, try TUNGSTEN (the light bulb icon), or try the K white balance setting, setting it to about 2600K with the top dial. (Quick Control Screen > use rear thumb button to go to the AWB icon > SET > turn rear dial to K > turn top dial to 2600K.

You may use the K setting for anything. low numbers, like 2500K or 3000K, make things look cooler (bluer), and high numbers, like 7000K or 9000K make things look much warmer (more orange).

There is no "right" setting: use whatever looks best to you.

Your WB SHIFT/BKT settings apply in addition to whatever you've set as white balance, so you can make things warmer or cooler by adjusting either the K or WB settings as well as the WB SHIFT/BKT setting.

Color Saturation (Picture Styles)

For people, I shoot in the STANDARD [ *S ] Picture Style setting (you get there by hitting the rear top left "*" button), and change only the saturation to +2.

For everything else scenic or product, I usually set +3 saturation.

ISO

I usually shoot in AUTO ISO. It's one down from ISO 100.

If shooting action in the dark, since Auto ISO usually lets the camera drop to too slow a shutter speed (1/3 of a stop slower than 1/focal length), I'll dial-in ISO 1,600 or whatever I need to keep the speeds as I need them.

For example, with a 50mm lens, Auto ISO lets the shutter speed drop to 1/40, but with wiggly kids, I need 1/125.

Auto ISO forces ISO 400 with flash, but I usually prefer something slower and will set it deliberately if I have time.

Tweaks

I always leave the shadow optimizer (Automatic Lighting Optimizer) ON, which is its default.

I don't use highlight recovery (Highlight Tone Priority), since if I activate it, shadow optimization turns itself off.

Exposure Compensation

Exposure Compensation makes the pictures lighter or darker. You set it by turning the big rear dial; be sure the rear LOCK > slide switch isn't set to lock.

Colorful subjects in interesting outdoor light at +3 saturation can overload saturated highlights, so usually shoot at -2/3 compensation for scenic shots.

For most people or indoor photos, I leave compensation at 0.

If the subject is light and there are large areas of darkness, often the 7D's meter will aim for the darker sections, and I may need to dial-in -1 stop or more compensation.

No big deal; look at your LCD and use what looks best. Experience with your types of subjects will let you predict the best compensation without needing the LCD.

Flash

Flash exposure is often too light on the 7D. Look at your image, and often you'll need to use negative exposure compensation.

Unfortunately, flash exposure often varies from shot-to-shot, making it difficult to get perfect results every time. I see this both with the built-in flash as well as an external flash like my 220EX.

For fill-flash, try taping a piece of 1/4 CTO gel over an external flash for better people colors.

The built-in flash works great, but often can't recharge itself fast enough. You'll see BUSY in the finder for the ten seconds or so it's recharging. If you need to shoot more quickly, any external flash will recharge much faster.

AutofocusModes

You have three choices for how the 7D focuses using the sensors you're selected. (I cover AF point selection a little later).

These are the three modes, which are the same among all Canon EOS cameras since the 1980s:

ONE SHOT

Use this for still subjects. The camera focuses, and locks as soon as it gets focus. You then may recompose.

Use this, and wait for AF to lock, before you grab the focus ring with a lens with manual-focus override. Otherwise, the 7D will keep trying to pull focus control away from you.

AI SERVO

The camera keeps trying to focus as things move around. It never stops; it always tracks your subject in and out.

Don't use this setting if you want to use instant manual-focus override by grabbing your lens' focus ring: the 7D will keep trying to focus under you.

AI FOCUS

I use this most of the time. This clever setting usually selects whichever of the two settings above is appropriate, and uses it.

This setting cleverly locks itself when the subject is still, and tracks it when it's moving.

I only select ONE SHOT when I know I'm shooting stills, otherwise, for kids or whatever pops up, AI FOCUS is my choice.

You can use manual-focus override in AI FOCUS, but only if it has locked, which it rarely does. In most cases, the 7D will keep trying to focus in AI FOCUS unless you're on a tripod.

AF Point Selection

I usually shoot in the default of AUTO SELECT 19 POINTS. In this mode, the 700D just figures it out. It usually selects whatever's closest, so if your subject isn't the closest thing, you may need to select different AF points

Auto select usually works fine, but if it doesn't automatically select the correct points for me, I'll point the camera in a different way so that it might catch what I want. I'll hold the shutter to hold the focus, recompose, and shoot.

If this doesn't work, I'll use just one point and place it where I want it.

Camera Lens Release Button

Now this button,just under where is says EOS 700D,If you press it,it releases the camera lens so its easier to take it off,You don't press it if your putting the lens back on it won't work,When it comes to putting the lens back on you just need to twist and its back on,Simple as that.