Andrew G. Hobbs,David Bailey,Tony Kelly

                                    Andrew.G.Hobbs

 

Australian born photographer and publisher Andrew G. Hobbs arrived in London in 1992 to pursue a career in fashion portraiture.
In the intervening two decades his photography has graced the covers of iconic magazines such as Esquire,
I-D,Sunday Times and Rolling Stone.
Andrew has worked with some of the biggest names in music, film and sport,including Kylie Minogue,Missy Elliot, Monica Bellucci,Jenson Button, and Frank Lampard.
In 2009 he was asked to shoot The Duchess of York with her family, including HRH Prince Andrew, for her birthday portraits.   Andrew has  run his own  luxurious fashion, art and design publication Centrefold Magazine since 2003 , and has worked  for Fashion clients  that include Globe Trotter, Louis Vuitton and Mackintosh.



Andrej Pejic model 
Andrej Pejic has become one of the most ubiquitous faces within the fashion industry, walking in both men's and women-wear shows across the globe. His presence has sparked unwarranted controversy yet he takes his role as the newest poster child of 21St century fashion in his stride. Here, he is presented in his raw and natural state

Andreja Pejić English pronunciation born 28 August 1991) is an Australian model of Bosnian Croat and Bosnian Serb ethnicity is a transgender woman, who until 2014 was billed as an "androgynous" male model, self-described as living in between genders

The photographer shows a few key points in his photo above, whenever I see this photo I think of women who have had breast cancer or women who have smaller breast. The photographer gives you the chance to interpret the image, they want you to guess what's going on or what's happening. I may not be right about what you think is going on in the photos but this is what I see when I look at these photos by Andrew.g.hobbs of Andreja pejic. 

In the photos above what comes to mind is women with smaller breast and don't feel like they need to change themselves just because of their breast size it doesn't matter if your an AA or DD people need to stop making young women feel like they need to have plastic surgery when its really not needed your body is made to fit who you are and how your body needs it to be. You don't need any boobs jobs, nose, face lifts nothing, every time I look at this photo I think how more women should be proud with there size and have more self-confidence about it,But this photo is of and man who is now a women but that is what I first thought when looking at these photos,These photos are amazing how they are taken. 



In this photo I love how Andrew g Hobbs makes the model look always it gives that not so interested look on the models face,But it dosent look very forced it looks natural.
The main focal point has to be her because the photographer has put the model in the middle of the photo which makes all the focal point on her,What I like is that the photographer has put this photo in black and white,It gives it this cold feel when you put photos in black and white also the background is white and nothing is happening in the back.
What I notice most is that she has a look on her face like not too forced by the photographer it all most looks natural to the model,
In this photo her top is off the shoulder and you can see her chest but nothing like the lost two photos which could be a bit outrageous to some people but this photo is a bit more covered up.
  

 Now in this photo of Cara Delevinge is so much different to the work he normally dose but this photo is very colour burst how it has that 70s/60s look/feel to the photo with the mustard yellow and that forest green the the navy blue,its very colourful to what he normally dose which,gives it that fresh look and something new the just having black and white/grey tones to the photo and this is what I would like to do with my work have very block colourers in my photos but basic in the same manor


Also in this photo I could fine the models name but how Andrew G Hobbs has put both photos together of a black and white and colour and it has the same 70s/60s feel to the photos the black and white one is very simple with the model looking away from the camera with the beehive hairstyle which is very 60s and that so simple and classic to the photo I would like to do something like this to my photos have that pop of colour but classic at the same time.





David Bailey 

"I don't take pictures,I make them" 



In 1960, David Bailey began photographing for British Vogue, and his fashion work and celebrity portraiture, known for stark backgrounds and dramatic lighting effects, transformed British fashion and celebrity photography. His work reflects the 1960s British cultural trend of breaking down antiquated and rigid class barriers by injecting a 'punk' look into both clothing and artistic products.


KRAY BROTHERS

"I made the krays famous"

 Kray Twins

Twin brothers Ronald "Ronnie" Kray was born 24 October 1933 and Reginald "Reggie" Kray was born 24 October 1933 were British gangsters who were the foremost perpetrators of crime in the East End of London during the 1950s and 1960s. The photo by David Bailey also there elder brother Charles James Kray was born 9 July 1927



"It's not a question of liking somebody, it's something to do with humanity, it's something to do with what we are," said Mr Bailey,"I did everyone a favour by making them famous," he said, "if you are a real gangster nobody knows who you are, so their big mistake was posing for me."



David Bailey has to be one of the most famous photographers to have live,He has photographed so many people it count less but I think he has to be famous for taking photos of the Kray twins and there older brother Charlie,He also has taken photos of the Queen,Mick Jagger,Johnny Depp,Michael Caine and Jude Law and so on.
He is no stranger to the camera his first cover for vogue was the Beatles,He also has worked for GQ,I-D,GQ style and glamour 
What I like most about David Bailey's work is the fact that most of them are in black and white and have that old school look to them like this photo above of Michael Caine and the way he has put them into a movie old school strip and his is big thick black glasses frames make the photo stand out and gives him this bad boy movie star look to him,The lighting David Baliey has used is key lighting its calves out the face and its more common lighting used on man its not so flattering for women 
In the photo above of Michael Canie,I like the way that David Bailey makes him look very old school as if he has taken these photos with a black and white film camera which like to used and which only like to take my photo with when I have more experience in photography.



  Here are photos of the Beatles that David Bailey has taken and used for vogue magazine and they are the negatives what I like and have said before,he used the old film camera to give it that old Hollywood film star look/bad boy movie star look to them.

Tony Kelly 




Tony Kelly (born 1975) is an Irish fashion photographer. He grew up in Dublin, Ireland and is currently based in Los Angeles.
His work has been published in Vanity Fair, Vogue Paris, Playboy (US Edition), Playboy (French Edition).American GQ, GQ Style, Flaunt, Vanidad,French,The Sunday Times.
Kelly's photographs are frequently overtly sexual in nature. He has been described as “Irreverent, uncouth and provocative and "Spontaneous, talkative and hyper-energetic”PHOTO magazine also said his images "play with humour and provocation" and that "His flashy style has conquered the world of fashion".James Mullinger, Photo Editor of GQ Magazine described him as a "modern genius" who works "at an incredible pace.
Kelly started his career in the Irish and UK newspaper industry where he worked as a photographer for Independent Newspapers and News International. 


Here is Tony kelly's playboy addon of Lauren young November 2013.
His work is very bright and colourful its also bright colours he use's and the photos are very sexually oriented but also fresh and something new,The colours are very vibrant and tastefully on how they have been taken its not so exposed and outrageous.



As you can see this photo by Tony kelly its a very bright and vibrant colours though out his photos he uses block colourers and they are very in your face,What I like most about his work has to be they faced they are very colourful just because most photographer don't really use that much colour in there work more black,white and grey tones and like in this photo he also uses a very sexual vibe in this photos but my too "porn" his work is very inspired by his work and would like to use very block colours in my work for the project I'm working on.You can also tell he likes to use his Photoshop and I would like to do this in my work just so my more to grips with the software.  


Gregory Heisler 

Gregory Heisler photographer has and theme running throw out his work which is black and white theme and seem to use the same lighting but it different ways,Gregory Heisler was born 1954 is a professional photographer known for his evocative portrait work often found on the cover of magazines such as,time for which he has produced a number of covers in the years 






Short Lighting 


where the shadowed side of the faces is more closest to the camera and makes the face look longer and slimmer,makes the model face smaller and gives it more shape,tone and drama,to the look.


This is what the short lighting set-up looks like,see how it highlights her face and makes her face look,more structured and give it more detail. 

Broad Lighting Diagram 


 If your face is already narrow,then short lighting isn't the right lighting to use but it all depends on the face shape,one other thing broad lighting is really good for is if someone has a disfigurement,you can make them feel more comfortable by shadowing it out.


As you can see here this is what broad lighting looking like,when using broad lighting to show the one side of the face/head.It can be used to either broaden or narrow the width of the face.


Butterfly Lighting 


The butterfly lighting-is named because is give you a butterfly shape just under the nose,only really used for the old Hollywood movie stars,it give it that glamour and sharp look in the photos 


As you can see the,shadow from her nose and her upper lip cupids bow which give you this butterfly shape.


Rembrandt Lighting 

Rembrandt lighting,gives drama,mood and also makes the photos sharp,this set-up is mainly used for man,just because they have more of and stronger face structure.And it makes your photos not look so flat when taking.


Now this is perfect way of showing,Rembrandt lighting just because of how detail of the photo really showing you all this face structure and that strong showed on him.

loop lighting 


loop lighting,which is named form the loop-shaped shadow under the models nose,it is the most used pattern in studio photography.Its is considered flattering and an adaptable pattern that lights most of the face while creating a sense of depth.To create this you have to place the main light above the face(typically 25-60 degrees) and place either to the right or left depending on the direction in which the face is pointing







Light Modifiers 

soft box/light banks


These modifiers are large,shoot-through boxes although some of these are octagon shaped,The light source is directed through the back of the box which is sent though a screen which serves as a diffuser before it casts a broad,soft light on to the person.These are useful in product photography since the catch light they produce tends to be very wide and even,this minimizes distraction.the soft flattering light makes it a good idea to use when shooting people.



Umbrellas 



Umbrellas are true light modifiers most known for their ease of use.A photographer just getting stared in strobism can get some great shots using an umbrella.There is two different types of umbrellas-shoot though and reflective,both names summarise how they work.As to which style is better,it all depends on what you are shooting and what you prefer.

Broad Reflectors   



A broad reflectors is a flat surface which is used to reflect of bounce light onto the person ,they are really easy to use and you can use them inside and outside of the studio,they come in a variety of size and colours and each type will show different results.The most common colours are white,silver and gold.When decciding which colours to use remember that a warm colour like gold for example will give the photos a warm look to then and silver reflector will bounce a cool light on the person.



Beauty Dish  




  The beauty dish is a modifier which doesn't reflect light so much as it dose direct it,which seems a-bit like splitting hairs but it dose make a difference.A beauty dish is shaped,it is a dish with the light source coming from the bottom centre.As the light source emits it light the dish then funnels it out directly to the person with a little diffusion and hight falloff rate.This then creates a hard light that can be difficult to master.To control the harshness many photographers place additional modifiers on top of the beauty dishes.



lighting techniques 

Aperture;
If you have a small aperture the depth of field would the deeper but if you have a larger aperture it gives you less depth of field.The smaller the aperture size the less light that is allowed into the camera sensor.An example of this is if the lens focal length and the shooting distance stay the same,the depth of field is much deeper at f-16 then it ia at f-1.4 

lighting ratio;
It is difference in output between the key light and fill light,The two lights are really important because it provides he photograph with shadow and depth of field.The higher the lighting ratio the higher the contrast is but the lower the ratio the lower the contrast is.

Metered by the auto exposure system; 

Spot Metering- This only measures the intensity of light over a small circular area is in the centre of a viewfinder.The average is then calculated by measuring just 2/4% of the image area.

Partial Metering-This mode measures the intensity of the light over a large circular then in the spot mode.The average is then calculated by measuring 8/13% of the image area.

Centre-weighted average metering-This light metering mode measures the light across the whole image area,but bases the reading to the centre of the viewfinder area.This is different to evaluative metering because it dose not take the focus point into account,so it uses the same averaging pattern for every shot. 

Evaluative Metering- This measures light across the whole frame,but strongly bases the reading to the area around the autofocus point currently being used.

The Three Point Lighting System; 


This is an standard lighting technique,it is made used by three different lights which is the fill light,key light and the back light

KEY LIGHT;
The purpose of the key light is to highlight the object.The key light is not a rigid requirement.This light can result into making a silhouette effect,this is the main light it is usually the strongest and has the most influence on the look of the scene.It is placed to one side of the camera/object so that this side is well lit and the other side has some shadow.

RIM LIGHTING
The rim light is often set up behind the object and slightly higher than the other lights,because this light is facing the camera,its important that it be completely blocked by the object or out of the field of view.If not you may get lens flare and lowered contrast.one way to block the light is to position a piece of cardboard between the light and objects.





Fill Light; This is the secondary light and placed on the opposite-site of the key light.It is used to fill the shadow created by the key.The fill will usually be softer and less bright than the key.To achieve this,you could move the light further away or use some spun.


Flash Modifiers;  

wireless flash triggers  


These will remotely trigger the flash without needing to connect it to your camera with a cable of any sort.This is very convenient as it makes it possible to control flashes which are not actually on the camera.

Flash Triggers; 
The flash triggers are usually connected to the top of the camera.This will fire the flash when the shutter button is pressed,However when using the flashed which are not connected to the camera,Syncing the flash to the camera shutter can be very difficult.

Wireless triggers  
The easiest way to use the flash without using a cable would be the wireless triggers,The wireless triggers will send radio signals to the camera flash this will then make the camera flash.

Speed Light/speedlite flash 

Speed light is a type of flash strobe which was created by Nikon,Nikon has a wide range of different types of speeds lights they all serve a different purpose to the certain cameras. 

SB-600 (Disconnected) 



The Nikon SB-600 is a flash that is made for film and single-lens reflex cameras,The SB-600 can mount to any Nikon camera with a four-prong hotshot,The SB-600 cannot control other flashes thought a wireless connection,however a flash commander can control it wireless,The model is the most suitable unit with the older model film and earlier digital cameras.

SB-800 (Disconnected);  
The Nikon SB-800 is made for a digital and film single-lens reflex camera,Its has electronic the lens interfaces for through (TTL),Automatic exposure and automatic zoom which matches lens lengths from 25-105 mm.




Flash guns; 
A flash gun is very useful because you can use it to illuminate the object of the photograph,While most cameras have a built in flash a flash gun can be very useful when you need added light on an object,A flash gun is much more powerful then a flash that is built in the camera





Umbrella Diffuser;  





An umbrella has two purposes which are reflectors and diffusers,the umbrella is either a white or silver material which is designed to reflect light,while the back is black material this blocks the passage of light,When the flash is fired into the umbrella the material reflects the light,then increases the light that is on the object.Some umbrellas let you remover the black material from the outside of the umbrella,You can then turn the umbrella around and shoot a flash through it,When you do this the white material form the umbrella diffuses the light from the flash this then creates a even light.

Off Cameras Flash   


An off-camera flash are flash unit that are not built-into the camera,These are mounted on the hotshot,on top the camera,It could also be mounted on a light stand or a surface,The off camera flash communicates with the camera in three ways- The camera emits its own flash or infra-red to trigger the off-camera flash,There is a direct wire connection between camera and off-camera flash and a connection is completed by a radio signal trigger,Some off-camera unit are capable of through-the-lens (TTL) control where the camera senses the scene and adjusts the flash accordingly,Other unit will need to be manually adjusted when the off the camera.

Advantages of using off-camera flash-

  • They are small and are lightweight and they can mount on top of the camera hotshot.
  • They are battery powered.
  • They can fit easily in any bag.
  • You can set them wireless.
  • They are made for location shoots.

Disadvantages of useing off-camera flash 

  • They need fresh batteries a lot.
  • There not as powerful as a studio strobe.
  • You will need a special adapter to put one of these on a light stand.
  • You will need to have an accessory of some sort to the soften and diffuse the light. 




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